Hokkaido is
a land of haunting, natural beauty where vast, virgin forests are cut
through by raging icy torrents and huge, brown bears roam in the shadow
of towering snow-capped volcanoes - a magical, and in many ways still
unexplored, wilderness. Despite being Japan’s second largest island
Hokkaido remains its least populated region and it retains a distinct
frontier feel, partly explained by the fact that it has only relatively
recently come under true Japanese control. Both in climate and culture
this stunning island represents a refreshingly different side to Japan,
unique among the country’s many jewels, and with this new trip it
becomes the last of the archipelago’s four main islands to be touched by
the ever turning wheels of The Oriental Caravan.
Our journey takes place in February when the winter wonders of Hokkaido
really come into their own. From the bright lights of Tokyo we head
straight for the island’s vibrant capital Sapporo and the city's annual
Snow Festival, famous for its utterly spectacular ice sculptures. After
time to enjoy Sapporo’s unique nightlife (not to mention remarkable beer
museum!) we start our train journey eastwards through an unfolding
wilderness to Kushiro where the tranquil marshlands of Tsurui are home
to the beautiful Red-crowned Crane. Perhaps the coolest bird in the
world we should be able to witness its truly enchanting February mating
dance, something that has to be seen to be believed. Further north we
reach the delightfully intriguing town of Abashiri and take an
unforgettable ice-breaking cruise through drift ice caused by the flow
of the River Amur into the Sea of Okhotsk. We also visit the town’s
Prison Museum which details the disturbing history of the area as a
penal colony – a rare and thought-provoking insight into the real, human
story behind modern Japan. In Asahidake we have a chance to ascend, by
cable car, the highest mountain in Hokkaido, go snow shoe walking to
observe the woodland wildlife and – a real treat – bathe in hot springs
in the snow just like the locals! Before leaving Hokkaido we spend two
fascinating nights in Hakodate, with its Nagasaki-like ambience,
turn-of-the-century Western-style buildings and amazing fish market.
Who are the Ainu? Once the
sole inhabitants of Japan's archipelago, the indigenous,
hunter-gathering Ainu were, over many centuries, gradually
pushed North by Japanese newcomers until Hokkaido became
their last refuge. During the nineteenth century even this
sanctuary was taken from them and they became completely
subjugated by their newly modernized neighbours from the
South. It is only in very recent years that Japanese state
suppression has ceased and the remaining Ainu have begun to
rediscover some of their cultural identity. Known for their
enchanting music and beautiful textiles we will, as an
adjunct to this trip, endeavour to learn a little more about
this mysterious people and their almost lost world... |
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