The Oriental Caravan has just returned
from a truly magical journey through the unspoilt and
enigmatic kingdom of Bhutan. There, far beyond the snowy folds of the
Himalayas, we found a country of spectacular landscapes and overwhelmingly
friendly people - the last place on Earth where Tibetan
Buddhism as a national religion is able to flourish freely.
Schoolgirls in Gangtey
Landscape near Chorten Kora
Monks at Trongsa Dzong (a Dzong is
a monastic fortress)
Farmer from the Bumthang valley
" I am not so much concerned about the Gross
National Product as I am about the Gross National Happiness"
- remark attributed to Bhutan's king, Jigme Wangchuk
Caravaneers assembled at Pele La
pass
Sue and young monks at Wangdue Phodrang
Trongsa Dzong, mightiest in Bhutan
Mt Kangchenjunga (lit. Mountain of the Five Great
Snow Jewels) as seen on the flight to Paro airport
Since opening up to the outside world in the 1970's Bhutan
has deliberately kept foreign visitor numbers to a minimum. This
enlightened policy has helped protect Bhutan's unique culture, a culture
which has in turn, thanks to Buddhism's respect for all forms of life,
helped preserve the country's natural environment, and in particular its
fauna.
From Nepal's capital Kathmandu we took a plane to Bhutan's
only airport, Paro, on a short mountain flight considered to be the most spectacular in the world.
Making them appear almost close enough to touch the plane flew parallel to some of the highest mountains in the world including
Mts Everest
(8848m), Lhotse (8501m), Makalu (8463m), Cho Oyu (8103m) and Kangchenjunga
(8586m). Eventually, as we approached Bhutan, the beautiful Mt. Jomolhari
came into view, the country's most
sacred mountain (and a TOC trek
destination for 2004!). Landing in Paro was like landing in another
world.
Walking through lush forest to the Phephe La Pass
in Bumthang
Girl with wooden camera, Taktshang hermitage
Girl near Kunzangdrak Goemba (goemba
is Bhutanese for monastery), Tang Valley
Woodcarver in the Phobjika Valley
Trekking in the Bumthang Valley
The Oriental Caravan
campsite near Ngang Lhakang
Kurjey Lhakang temple in Bumthang,
famed for its body imprint of Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava - 'Lotus
Born') bringer of Buddhism to Bhutan
Looking out towards the Tang Valley
After exploring Paro and the country's sleepy capital, Thimpu,
The
Oriental Caravan travelled east towards
Bumthang. There, deep within
Bhutan's cultural heartland, we were blessed by fine late Autumn weather
which provided the ideal
conditions for some great hiking.
We also made the short hike up to Taktshang, an ancient cave
hermitage perched precariously high up on a steep cliff near Paro. Guru Rinpoche,
the bringer of Buddhism to Bhutan, is said to have meditated here
for three months after arriving on the back of a flying tiger.
At the end of our trek in Bumthang we were privileged to
meet anthropologist and world authority on Bhutan, Francoise
Pommaret and were very kindly guided by her around Ugyen Chholing
Palace - and given a rare insight into the complexities of Bhutanese life.
Thanks in great degree to Ms Pommaret's hard work and dedication the once
neglected Palace is now a remarkably well-presented museum of rural
Bhutanese life.
Taktshang (Tiger's
Nest) hermitage - badly damaged by fire in 1998 the temple buildings
have now been almost completely restored
Bhutanese boots
The Wheel of Life
- wall relief in Punakha Dzong
Hiking up to Taktshang
Sangay and Peter - our guide
and driver
Francoise Pommaret
Archery target - to learn more
about Bhutanese archery and view a short (and entertaining!) video
of dancing and singing archers CLICK
HERE
Prayer flag and pole
En route to Bumthang we spent one night at Gangtey in the
Phobjika valley. This area is winter home to the rare and endangered
black-necked crane and watching (and hearing!) them 'regroup' at dusk on
the valley's wetland floor was an unforgettable experience. In Spring the
birds return to their summer home in Western Tibet - the only other place
they are to be found is at Caohai Lake in China's Guizhou province. This
strikingly elegant waterfowl is highly respected in Bhutan and the subject
of numerous folk tales and village songs.
That's about it for now. Its
been a great year for all aboard The Oriental
Caravan. We hope you've enjoyed the e- Postcards.
Wishing
you a very Merry Christmas and many Happy Travels for the New Year!
Best
wishes,
from Phil and all aboard The
Oriental Caravan
Bhutan's National dress (the gho for men, kira
for women)is compulsory
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